"The Eighth Wonder of the World"

Several months ago, I saw an article on things to do and see in Indiana. I read it because we travel to this state at least twice a year and are always looking for fun things to do. One of the features was the French Lick Springs Resort. As I read, I became increasingly fascinated with the place's history and knew it would need to be included in an upcoming itinerary.  This Christmas trip was the perfect time; however, I also hoped for a large snow-covering to add to the ambiance.  That didn't happen but it was a memorable trip nonetheless.  Let me share it with you.

We allowed two days to travel from Plano, TX which was a great idea due to the horrific storms we encountered on both Sunday and Monday, plus the distance.  I had made dinner reservations at the Ballard Grill inside the West Baden Hotel Atrium for Tuesday night and we barely arrived in time to freshen up before dinner.  I was not disappointed with anything about this trip.

The Christmas lights took us back to the heyday of the early 1900s when this place was one of the most sought-after resorts in the country.  The history of this area is so fascinating and I will try not to bore you with too much detail.  Back in the early 1900s the small towns of French Lick and West Baden became a famed vacation and gathering place for wealthy and prominent society members.

In 1845, the French Lick Springs Hotel was built and drew guests from as far as 100 miles away to partake of the “miracle waters” from the sulfur springs that naturally surfaced in the area. 

In 1901, the French Lick Springs Hotel rose to international prominence after Indianapolis Mayor Tom Taggart purchased the property. He expanded the hotel, added luxurious furnishings and marble floors, designed two championship golf courses, and started bottling Pluto Water for national sale.

As part of Taggart's updates and expansion, more than $230,000 worth of gold leafing was used on interior surfaces throughout the resort, most notably within the French Lick Springs Hotel lobby.  It was truly a very luxurious entry.

During this time, Mr. Taggart became the Democratic National Chairman and French Lick Springs Hotel became the unofficial headquarters for the Democratic National Party. During the National Governor’s Conference at French Lick in 1931, Franklin Delano Roosevelt rounded up support for the party’s presidential nomination; a year later he became the official Democratic candidate and won the presidency in 1932.  As a result of this political connection, many prominent Hollywood stars and national leaders were seen regularly at the hotel.  It is still known for its fabulous spa and golf course.

In 1850, another doctor named John Lane saw the success of French Lick Springs Hotel and decided to build his own health resort just one mile up the road naming it Mile Lick Inn. He later changed the name of the hotel, and the town, to West Baden Springs after the famous mineral springs in Wiesbaden, Germany. 

Lee W. Sinclair transformed West Baden Springs Hotel into a sophisticated resort when he assumed ownership in 1888. After a fire ravaged the hotel in 1901, Sinclair used the opportunity to further transform West Baden Springs Hotel into a world-class facility. With a $414,000 budget and a one-year timeline, Sinclair erected a hotel modeled after the grandest spas of Europe, complete with the world’s largest free-span dome, which stretched 200 feet. Dubbed the "Eighth Wonder of the World," the hotel was a haven for celebrities and political figures.

While French Lick Springs Hotel remained a functioning resort over the next 100 years, the same could not be said for West Baden Springs Hotel. In 1923, the property was purchased by Ed Ballard and it became a gambling center.  In 1934, following the stock market crash of 1929, the hotel was sold to the Society of Jesus for $1. The Jesuits removed many of the building’s elegant appointments and operated it as a seminary for 30 years. Northwood College was the next tenant, from 1967 to 1983, and then the magnificent building sat unoccupied for 13 years.  In 1974 it was listed on the National Register of Historic Places and in 1987 earned the designation as a National Historic Landmark. 

When a 180-foot, six-story section of West Baden Springs Hotel collapsed in 1991, it crumbled further from its glory days. The once-lavish hotel was reduced to a pile of rubble. It now had a not-so-prestigious place on the National Trust’s list of 11 Most Endangered Historic Properties in the United States.

Luckily for the withering structure, help was nearby. Indiana Landmarks, the largest nonprofit preservation group in the nation, partnered with philanthropists Bill and Gayle Cook to make a permanent, positive impact on both the hotel and the depressed region around it. Through an anonymous contribution, it was purchased in 1996 for $250,000.

French Lick Resort was the ideal target. This multi-million dollar pledge for the stabilization and partial renovation of West Baden Springs Hotel led to a much more ambitious plan than anyone could have imagined. Their investment not only saved West Baden Springs Hotel, but also restored French Lick Springs Hotel to its former glory.

The refurbished French Lick Springs Hotel and its new casino officially opened in November 2006, and a large part of the restoration of West Baden Springs Hotel started the next day. When it was all said and done, it required about $600 million in renovations to create the resort you see today. More than a decade after “The Save of the Century,” tourism is once again thriving in the area. It was the largest privately funded restoration project in Indiana and one of the biggest in the country.

After checking into our room and doing a very rushed freshening up, we were driven to the West Baden Hotel for dinner in the Ballard Grill.  We were in awe!

This photo (not mine) is an overview of the immense size of the West Baden Hotel Atrium.

After our delicious meal, we toured the Atrium and Hotel.  

The flooring in both the lobby and the atrium consists of millions of pieces of mosaic stones. Gorgeous!

From the Atrium we went into the Hotel Lobby.  It is a beautifully appointed room with a tiled mosaic floor, gilded wall paintings, and classical statuary.

From here, we took the elevator to the sixth floor for an overlook of the atrium.  What an amazing view.

This is a close-up view of the expansive beams supporting the dome.

There is also a museum that shares the fascinating history of this place.

After walking up and down and all around, we still weren't ready to leave.  It was amazing how quiet it was even though there were people all around in small groupings.  There was delightful background jazz Christmas music and the beauty of this place held us spellbound.

So, we found comfy lounge chairs and enjoyed each other and our surroundings before being shuttled back to our room for a good night's sleep for the final drive north the next morning.

I cannot recommend this place enough.  Another interesting tidbit of info about French Lick is that it is the home of pro basketball Hall of Famer Larry Bird.

Here is a link for information about a Larry Bird tour.

Larry Bird's Home in French Lick, IN